Preparing a trip to Scotland in 2026
Passport, ETA, Edinburgh's visitor levy, the best time to go, driving on the left and single-track roads: the guide to preparing a trip to Scotland.
Scotland feels close, and that is exactly what catches people out: travellers underestimate the formalities since Brexit, the distances in the Highlands and the weather. Here is what you need to know to prepare a trip to Scotland, with the rules in force in 2026.
Information checked in October 2026, for travellers of French nationality. I check the entry requirements again before every departure.
Passport and ETA: the formalities since Brexit
For French nationals, the identity card is no longer enough to enter the United Kingdom: you need a passport.
Since 2 April 2025, European travellers must also obtain an Electronic Travel Authorisation, the ETA, before departure. You apply online or on the UK government's official app, and it has cost 20 pounds since 8 April 2026. It is valid for two years, for multiple stays, or until the passport expires if that comes sooner.
Every traveller needs their own ETA, children and babies included. Beware of intermediary websites that charge more for the application: use the official site.
Edinburgh's visitor levy
Since 24 July 2026, Edinburgh has applied a visitor levy of 5% on the price of accommodation, capped at five consecutive nights. It applies to all types of accommodation: hotels, B&Bs, rentals and campsites. It is the first city in Scotland to introduce one.
When to go
May and September offer the best balance between light, crowds and midges, the tiny biting flies found in the Highlands in summer. July and August have the longest days, but also the most people, and August is the month of the Edinburgh festivals, with scarce and expensive accommodation in the city. In winter, many seasonal sites close and the days are very short. The month-by-month table is on my Scotland page.
Car or public transport?
Edinburgh and Glasgow are easy to explore without a car. For the Highlands and the islands, a car gives you a freedom that public transport cannot. You then need to know two things: you drive on the left, and many Highland roads are single-track, with passing places. Journey times are therefore longer than the distance suggests.
How many days, and which itinerary
Eight days allow a first loop of Edinburgh, the Highlands and the Isle of Skye, provided you do not try to see everything. With twelve days or more, you can add the north or the west coast without rushing. The most common mistake is changing accommodation every night: a minimum of two nights per stop changes everything.
What to book early
- Accommodation on the Isle of Skye and in the small Highland villages, which is limited in high season.
- Accommodation in Edinburgh in August and for New Year, with Hogmanay.
- The hire car, especially an automatic.
New Year in Scotland
New Year, or Hogmanay, is one of Scotland's great celebrations. In Edinburgh, it comes with several days of festivities, including a large ticketed street party and fireworks over the castle at midnight. I talk about it on my page New Year abroad.
Planning your trip to Scotland
I build trips to Scotland that take into account the real distances, the weather and the midges: the itinerary, the accommodation, the car, and a travel book with my recommended places for each stage.
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